Works manager

WHAT CAN I PLASTER ON?

PREPARATION OF VARIOUS SURFACES FOR CLAY PLASTER FINISHING WORKS

Before you start plastering the walls with clay plaster, you must first carry out the following preparatory works:

Tiles must be glued in sanitary facilities;
All electrical wiring must be installed and flush-mounted installation boxes must be installed;
Walls must be prepared for final finishing (read about preparation below);
The ceiling must be plastered with decorative clay plaster or painted with ordinary paint (read about the preparation and plastering of the ceiling below). P.S. stretch ceilings must be installed after the clay plaster finishing works.
If recessed skirting boards are provided, the floor must already be folded and the profiles for the skirting boards must be installed in the walls. The floor must be protected with a special impact-resistant material, protective paper is not suitable as the only protection. Only then do we plaster with decorative clay plaster.

PREPARATION OF WINDOW OPENING EDGES:

To prevent cracks at the junction of the window frame and the wall, we recommend installing deformation (shadow) seams. If the opening edge is already fitted to the window frame, it is recommended to apply a strip of glass cloth to the window frame to mitigate the future crack.

On gypsum/lime/cement plaster:

If the leveling plaster is evenly covered and has no protruding or concave defects, the finishing clay plaster can be plastered directly after priming the walls with a deep primer.
If the leveling plaster has many different repairs or defects that do not touch the plane unevenly, it is recommended to thin such walls once with a mixture of gypsum plaster, such as ROTBAND.
If plastic, aluminum or other finishing corners and half-corners are used at the outer corners of the walls, they must be primed twice before plastering with an adhesion-enhancing primer with a quartz sand filler to ensure good adhesion of the clay plaster. Otherwise, the clay plaster may not adhere at all or if it does, the corners will be very vulnerable.
When plastering non-galvanized parts, they must be primed twice with anti-corrosion primer.

Preparation of gypsum board/gypsum fiberboard walls and ceilings:

We recommend reinforcing KNAUF Kurt putty with gypsum board and gypsum fiberboard joints and internal corners. Course of work: Putty such as Knauf Fugenfüller Leicht or Knauf Uniflott is applied in an even layer (min. 1 mm thick and approx. 80 mm wide) at the place of the joint. Knauf Kurt paper joint reinforcement tape is immediately inserted into the applied putty (the outer side of the tape roll must face the seam). The tape is firmly pressed into the seam with a putty knife. The spilled putty can be collected with a putty and used for further puttying.
Either aluminum corners or aluminized KNAUF ALUX-KANTENSCHUTZ paper tape can be used to form the outer corners. If you use aluminum corners, the corners must be primed with a white contact primer with quartz sand.
If a shaded seam is formed between the ceiling and the walls, there must be about 4 mm between the flattened aluminum semicircle and the wall.

If the seams, corners and fastening bolts are properly glued and evenly aligned with the plane, it is not necessary to putty or prime the entire wall or ceiling area.

(The information is prepared on the basis of the KNAUF recommendations).

Preparation of concrete structures

Reinforced concrete construction.

First of all, loose particles must be removed from the concrete and the entire surface must be primed with deep primer. Knauf Multi-Finish putty is used for grouting concrete construction joints and Knauf Multi-Finish M for machine grouting. The seams are filled with putty, covering both sides of the seam with a layer about 1 mm thick. The Knauf Kurt joint reinforcement tape is inserted into the freshly applied putty and pressed firmly with the putty. After the putty has hardened and dried, the joint is covered with a strip 200 to 300 mm wide. If the concrete is very porous, it is recommended to smooth the entire area.

Monolithic (seamless) construction.

First of all, loose particles must be removed from the concrete and the entire surface must be primed with deep primer. If the concrete is very porous, the entire area can be covered with gypsum or plastered three times with finishing clay plaster.

On previously painted surfaces:

Plastering is possible only on firmly adhering old paint. Clean or rinse thoroughly before plastering.
Before plastering on oil paints, the surface should be primed with an adhesion-enhancing primer.
Poorly adhering paints should be washed/scrubbed to a firm surface and primed with an adhesion-enhancing primer.
When plastering on some old paints, small air bubbles may appear in the second layer of clay plaster, which should be slightly visible when dry, so you should try plastering in a small area in two coats beforehand. When plastering in three layers, the bubbles no longer rise in the third layer.

On the old tiles:

If the tiles hold firmly and are glued fairly evenly so that you can plaster them evenly with a metal tool, they need to be primed a couple of times with an adhesion-enhancing primer with quartz sand filler.
When plastering the first coat of clay plaster, the tile surface may scratch from the marble filler in the mix, but be careful as everything will be hidden under the second coat of clay plaster.

On old wallpapers:

Of course, it is always better to peel off old wallpaper, but sometimes they stick extremely firmly and peel off with all the plaster, so if you don’t want to do major repairs, you can plaster directly on old wallpaper. Before that, it is necessary to make sure that the wallpaper adheres firmly to the wall and primed with a primer that improves the adhesion of the surfaces to the quartz sand filler.
To test the adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall, you can moisten them with water. If, when wet, they still stick firmly to the wall, you can plaster with clay plaster.

On the OSB board:

If the OSB boards are only compressed side by side, but the joints are not reinforced and plastered, plastering with clay plaster in those places will cause a crack, therefore the joints of the boards should be arranged as required, preferably with continuous wall reinforcement or leaving a “shadow” joint.
OSB boards must be primed with an adhesion-enhancing primer with quartz sand before plastering.

Follow this link to learn how to prepare the mix correctly and how to plaster the first layer:

Decorative clay plaster can be used to decorate interior walls, allowing you to create a natural and cosy décor as a modern interior suitable for a range of spaces. Plastering is a manageable task and doesn’t need to be done by professionals – even someone doing it for the first time can achieve great results.

Decorative clay plaster is plastered twice on various surfaces, such as various plasters, gypsum boards and other boards or even old surfaces, including firmly adhering paint, wallpaper or even ceramic tiles. The total thickness of the plaster is 2-3 mm. For information on how to properly prepare any surface, look on our website www.clay.lt

Decorative clay plaster is white, so if you want to work with coloured plaster, add a container of mineral pigment of the selected colour during mixing. The mineral pigment colour palette features more than 100 different shades, so everyone will find the right colour for their project.

Take special care when mixing the pigment into the plaster, as this will determine the quality of plastering. Add 8.5 L of water to a container of at least 35 L, then add the entire pigment if you are plastering with a colour. Next, mix well using an electric mixer. After further stirring, slowly pour in the entire package of the decorative clay plaster, mix well and cover the container to allow the mixture to swell for between 1 to 12 hours. The mixture may look pretty liquid, but it will thicken later. Before plastering, re-mix the clay plaster again.

Do not be concerned by the colour of the wet mixture – as it dries, it will become much brighter, and once it has fully dried, it will be exactly the colour you have chosen.

While the decorative clay plaster is swelling, you can use adhesive protective tapes to protect the adjacent walls, ceilings, floors, electrical switches and other parts of the wall. This adhesive protective tape can also help to form a beautiful inner corner, although you must note that when gluing the protective tape on the adjacent wall, you cannot glue it directly into the corner – it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between the tape and the inner corner, so the clay plaster does not crumble when you peel off the tape after plastering the wall.

If plastic, aluminium or other finishing corners and half-corners are used at the outer corners of the walls, they must be primed twice with an adhesion-promoting primer with quartz sand filler before plastering, to ensure that the clay plaster adheres properly.

The clay plaster mixture can be spread with typical coating tools, but a stainless steel trowel with a handle on the top should be used to form a solid pattern. The trowel should be flexible and not too hard. The edges and corners must be rounded to prevent leaving cuts on the wall. Quality metal will ensure that the tool does not leave black marks on the wall. You will also need a smaller spatula to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply it to the corners.

For right-handers, we recommend that you start plastering from the left corner. If it is an inner corner, thinly apply clay plaster to the corner with a smaller spatula before using the trowel with a handle to plaster on the top.

You should plaster with medium-length movements, placing the trowel on an area not yet plastered or at the nearest corner. Gradually increase the plastered area by continuing the plastering along the edge line, and this way, you will prevent any edges from drying out. Note that the trowel is placed on a place that has not yet been plastered and removed in an already plastered area, which we will not touch with the tool anymore. It is best to plaster in an uneven semicircle – never work in squares or even stripes. We also recommend applying the edges as irregularly and thinly as possible, so that later, even after a little drying, they combine more nicely with the freshly applied mixture.

Once you start a wall, it must be plastered immediately, otherwise you will see a joining line if you stop in the middle of the wall and want to finish plastering the next day. If you think that it will be difficult for one person to finish a large wall, we recommend working in pairs: one person applies and distributes the clay plaster on the wall, and the other one unifies the pattern. This will make the work faster and easier, and the result will be much better.

When plastering, clean the trowel regularly so that the clay plaster does not dry out and the hardened mixture does not interfere with the quality of your work.

As you plaster, one edge of the trowel should be slightly raised, and the plastering itself takes place by lightly pressing the tool to the wall. Do not touch the entire plane of the trowel to the wall as it will stick and you will find it difficult to distribute the mixture nicely and thinly. And if you hold it too upright, the trowel will cut the wall and the mixture will be too thin.

We do not recommend making any repairs on already plastered areas unless that area has been plastered recently and is within a square meter of an unplastered area. When repairing the wall, do not leave any marks of the trowel; remove them evenly with the same short plastering movements as you approach an area that has not yet been plastered.

We recommend not finishing the outer corners during plastering, as this will be time-consuming. Also, once the mixture starts to dry, it may stick to the tool, damaging the wall or changing the surface texture through frequent contact with the tool. It is best to cut the excess mixture at the corners with the edge of a spatula and rub with a dedicated abrasive paper sponge.

Once the clay plaster has dried, peel off the protective tapes from the adjacent wall and reapply again, leaving a gap of about 2 mm, only this time on a wall already plastered with decorative clay plaster.

When you take the tape off, you will already see that a nice and smooth corner has formed.

When the first layer is completely dry, after about 12-24 hours, you can plaster a second layer of decorative clay plaster using the same techniques as in the first layer.

Before starting work on the second layer, be sure to stir the mixture again. If necessary, you can add an additional 200 ml of water for the second layer, to make the mixture easier to apply.

After the clay plaster has dried, the wall should be strong. If you feel some loose marble particles when touching it, we recommend gently wiping the wall with a dry cloth. In the future, only wipe with a dry cloth if the surface becomes dirty.

The wall finishing with clay plaster is free of toxic substances and completely vapour permeable, which ensures a healthy microclimate in the premises and for your well-being.

Follow this link to learn how to prepare the mix correctly and how to plaster the first layer:

FOR INTERIOR USE

FOR USAGE ON:

Various blocks and brick masonry
Reinforced concrete slabs
Straw-bale walls
Insulation wool for plastering
Log walls (requires additional use of mesh, wood laths or a reed mat)
Stoves, fireplaces
Other mineral construction surfaces.

Dried Classic clay plaster is plastered with white or coloured finishing clay plaster or painted with clay paint

does not contain harmful substances; does not cause allergies; odourless; tools are washed just with water

natural; permeable to water vapour; not flammable

25 KG/~1,38 m2/1 cm

DESCRIPTION

Classic leveling clay plaster is made of natural raw materials and is intended for interior decor of residential and public premises. Intended for both manual and machine plastering on various blocks, bricks, straw-bale walls, etc. No chemical additives or VOCs, the product is completely vapor-permeable – it absorbs and releases moisture perfectly, thus ensuring a healthy indoor microclimate.

Dried Classic clay plaster is plastered with white or coloured finishing clay plaster or painted with clay paint.

INGREDIENTS

Properly processed clay and carefully selected gravel.

The components that make up the mixture are safe for Your health.

PREPARATION AND USE

Gradually pour the 25 kg mixture into a container containing 4.5-5.5 l of water and mix well with an electric mixer. Allow the mixture to sit for at least 30 minutes before plastering.

All water-absorbing surfaces, such as ceramic masonry, must be moistened with water 1-3 times before plastering. When plastering a log wall, use wood laths, reed mats or mesh. Areas where materials of different absorbency intersect must be reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. More information about surface preparation can be found on our website www.clay.lt

To be plastered with stainless steel trowels or screeds.

When plastering in one go, the maximum plaster thickness is 12 mm. After the first layer has dried, it is possible to plaster again, after moistening the surface.

Avoid direct sunlight and drafts during usage.

Keep the prepared mixture covered. It is recommended to use the mixture up within 1-2 weeks.

TECHNICAL DATA

Standard	LST EN 998-1:2017
Bond strength	≥ 0,16 N/mm²(MPa)
Grain fineness no higher than	2 mm
Water content	4,5 – 5,5 l/ 25kg
Thickness of plaster layer, when applying two layers	~15 – 25 mm
Maximum thickness of plaster, when applying 1 layer	~10 mm
Temperature for plastering	> +5
Humidity for plastering	< 70%
Drying duration	1 – 7 dienos
Dry mixture consumption	~18 kg/m²/10 mm
Warehousing duration (manufacture date see on the package)	Unlimited
Colour	Brown
Package	25 kg.; 1000kg

KLASIKINIO MOLIO TINKO TINKAVIMAS ANT ĮVAIRIŲ PAVIRŠIŲ

Keraminių blokelių/plytų mūras

Silikatinių blokelių/pytų mūras

Dujų silikato blokeliai

Gelžbetonio sienos

Mūras drėkinamas vandeniu (purškiant/tepant/voluojant) 2/3 kartus, kad vandens absorbacija sumažėtų ir molio tinko džiūvimas nebūtų pernelyg greitas.
Ant sudrėkinto mūro tinkuojama rankiniu būdu arba mechanizuotai (PFT tipo ir kitais tinkavimo aparatais). Rekomenduojamas molio tinko storis yra nuo 15 iki 50 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Tinkuojama su tinkavimo profiliu ar be jo. Apdžiūvus tinkui, profilius reikia išimti.
Armavimo tinklelis PVC (165 g.) arba džiuto tinklelis dedamas tik skirtingų konstrukcinių medžiagų sandūrose galutiniame klasikinio molio tinko sluoksnyje.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.

*** tinkuojant gelžbetonio sienas, metalines detales būtina gruntuoti antikoroziniu gruntu du kartus.

Šiaudinės sienos

Šiaudinių sienų ir medinio karkaso sandūrose rekomenduojama pritvirtinti PVC tinklelį didesnėmis kiaurymėmis 10×10 mm, kad molio tinkas turėtų geresnį sukibimą su medžiu.
Tinkuojama rankiniu būdu arba mechanizuotai (PFT tipo ir kitais tinkavimo aparatais). Rekomenduojamas molio tinko storis yra nuo 30 iki 50 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį sieną reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Paskutiniame molio tinko sluoksnyje reikalingas ištisinis armavimas. Armavimo tinklelis PVC (165 g.) arba džiuto tinklelis įspaudžiamas į paskutinį sluoksnį ir užlyginamas.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.

Tinkavimui skirta kieta vata

Tinkuojant šlaitines lubas, kurių pagrindas yra tinkavimui skirta vata, sukibimui pagerinti dedamas PVC tinklelis didesnėmis kiaurymėmis 10×10 mm, kuris turi būti patikimai pritvirtintas, bet neprispaustas prie vatos. Sienoms, kurių pagrindas yra tinkavimui skirta vata – sukibimą gerinančio tinklelio naudoti nebūtina.
Tinkuojama rankiniu būdu arba mechanizuotai (PFT tipo ir kitais tinkavimo aparatais). Rekomenduojamas molio tinko storis yra nuo 15 iki 20 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį sieną reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Paskutiniame molio tinko sluoksnyje reikalingas ištisinis armavimas. Armavimo tinklelis PVC (165 g.) arba džiuto tinklelis įspaudžiamas į paskutinį sluoksnį ir užlyginamas.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.

Medžio rastų sienos

Tinkuojant rastines sienas ar medines lubas, sukibimui pagerinti gali būti naudojama: medinės balanos, nendrių demblis arba PVC tinklelis didesnėmis kiaurymėmis 10×10 mm.
Tinkuojama rankiniu būdu arba mechanizuotai (PFT tipo ir kitais tinkavimo aparatais). Rekomenduojamas bendras molio tinko storis yra nuo 15 iki 50 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį, sieną reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Paskutiniame molio tinko sluoksnyje reikalingas ištisinis armavimas. Armavimo tinklelis PVC (165 g.) arba džiuto tinklelis įspaudžiamas į paskutinį sluoksnį ir užlyginamas.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.

Įvairios statybinės plokštės: lygios cemento/pjuvenų, gipso plaušo, dvigubo gipso

Siūles reikia sutvarkyti pagal plokščių gamintojo nurodytą sistemą, o paviršių gruntuoti sukibimą gerinančiu gruntu. Tada tinkuojamas klasikinis molio tinkas.
Tinkuojama rankiniu būdu arba mechanizuotai (PFT tipo ir kitais tinkavimo aparatais). Rekomenduojamas molio tinko storis yra nuo 15 iki 50 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį sieną reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Paskutiniame molio tinko sluoksnyje reikalingas ištisinis armavimas. Armavimo tinklelis PVC (165 g.) arba džiuto tinklelis įspaudžiamas į paskutinį sluoksnį ir užlyginamas.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.

Mūrinės krosnies tinkavimas Klasikiniu molio tinku

Mūras drėkinamas vandeniu (purškiant/tepant/voluojant) 2/3 kartus, kad vandens absorbacija sumažėtų ir molio tinko džiūvimas nebūtų pernelyg greitas. Šis procesas ypatingai svarbus ruošiant krosnies mūrą tinkavimui, todėl rekomenduojama smarkiai sudrėkinti.
Ant sudrėkinto mūro tinkuojamas storasluoksnis molio tinkas. Tinkuojama rankiniu būdu Rekomenduojamas molio tinko storis yra nuo 15 iki 30 mm. Vienu kartu tinkuojama ne daugiau kaip 10 mm. Prieš tinkuojant kiekvieną sluoksnį reikia lengvai sudrėkinti.
Kad neatsirastų trūkimų, armavimui naudojamas tik specialus karščiui atsparus stiklo audinio tinklelis. Armavimo tinklelis dedamas galutiniame storasluoksnio molio tinko sluoksnyje ir užlyginamas.
Ant visiškai išdžiūvusio klasikinio molio tinko, papildomai nedrėkinant tinkuojamas apdailinis molio tinkas arba dažomi molio dažai.
Metalines krosnies dureles ir rėmus vykstant tinkavimo darbams būtina apsiklijuoti ir apsaugoti nuo drėgmės, kad neprasidėtų rūdijimo procesai.

*tinkuojant metalines detales būtina gruntuoti antikoroziniu gruntu du kartus.

Clay paint is a natural product suitable for painting with a roller or brush on brown classic or decorative clay plaster. The paint is odorless and does not contain harmful substances. You can boldly involve small family members at work as well, because if they smear themselves with white or colored clay paint, everything will be washed away with plain water. The work is easy to do yourself. With 8 kg of clay paint you will be able to paint about 30 m2 with two layers.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION FOR THE MIXTURE

COMPOSITION

A mixture of white clay, marble and technological additives diluted with water.

The components in the mixture are not harmful.

IT IS RECOMMENDED TO PAINT WITH CLAY PAINT ON:

Brown classic clay;
Finishing clay plaster;
Old clay paint.

No additional preparation is required for painting on the mentioned surfaces.

To paint on other surfaces, such as those listed below, we recommend that you first test in a small area and evaluate on your own whether you like the resulting image:

Gypsum plaster;
Lime plaster;
Cement plaster;
Drywall;
Gypsum fiber
Cement, sawdust, etc. building boards for plastering or plastering;
Previously plastered, painted and sanded surfaces;

* Note that the surface to be painted must be sufficiently smooth, as the clay paint is painted in a thin layer, so that small wall defects will not be removed in the same way as the finishing clay plaster can remove. More information about wall preparation www.clay.lt

CONSUMPTION OF MIXTURE 8 kg. / 30 sq.m. while painting with a roller twice.

COLORS: clay paints are toned in the same way as finishing clay plaster – the mixture is white, and a mineral pigment of the chosen color is added to it. The choice of color can be performed by the standard color palette, but keep in mind that the color of the clay paint will be a little more intense visually than the color of the same color pigment, when it is mixed with the finishing clay plaster. The structure is smoother, making it look visually different from clay plaster.

If you choose very bright colors, clay paint can become greasy.

MIXING AND USE

Pour 7-8 L of water into a container of at least 20 L, add all the pigment if you are painting with colors and mix well with a dedicated electric mixer. While continuing to stir, slowly add the entire package of clay paint, mix well, and allow the mixture to swell from 1h to 12h after covering the container. The mixture may look quite liquid, but it will thicken later. Stir the clay paint again before painting.

Don’t be surprised to see the color of the wet mix – when dried, it will be much brighter, the one you have chosen.

PAINTING

Pour the mixed mixture into a painting bath. It is recommended to choose a medium length hair roller for coloring. Hard-to-reach areas can be painted with a paintbrush or a smaller roller. If necessary, if painted on a finishing or classic clay plaster, the painted wall can be polished with a stainless steel putty knife. When you paint a second time, the bottom layer of paint softens, so make sure the roller rotates well on the wall surface and does not damage the bottom layer. After painting, it is recommended to carefully clean the wall with a clean dry cloth to allow particles that have protruded to the surface during painting to fall off. Minimal crumbling or lubricity is possible.

MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING

Clay paints are a natural product, so they will wash out when washed wet. However, after smearing the wall, you can try different dry cleaning methods or repaint it in one coat, or paint only the smeared area, spreading the paint unevenly to the sides so that no transitions are visible.

Water content	0.8 – 1l. / 1 kg.
Painting temperature	> + 5
Painting moisture	< 70 %
Drying time	4 – 24h.
Dry mix usage norms	0.26 kg / m2
Shelf life of the mixed mixture	2 weeks
Storage time	36 months
Color	White
Packaging	8 kg

Buy the kit here

Materials and tools needed for a wall of ~ 15 – 17 sq. m.:

Mr. Clay white decorative clay plaster (25 kg) – 1 piece 47 EUR
Mr. Clay Decorative clay – marble putty 10 kg. FINISH No. 9 (10 kg) – 1 piece 44 EUR
132_B No pigment for decorative clay plaster. x 1 pcs. 8 EUR (two layers of plaster in the same colour)
134_B No pigment for the third FINISH Nr. 9 layer– 1 piece 6 EUR
Tung oil 2,7 L. – 36 EUR
Hardwood charcoal ~ 20g. – 5 EUR
Black mineral pigment for concrete streaks effect 134_B – 37,5 g. (1 litre of water per 10 g dry black pigment) 6 EUR
Trowel for plastering and polishing Marmorino tools Stil mirror light 21102 – 37 EUR
A prepared sketch board on which you will make your example, test the colors, etc. – 6 EUR

The price of the whole set is only 195 EUR

The tools and aids you will need:

Measuring cup for holding the mixture here
Protective painting tape here
Paint protection film to protect adjacent walls
Microfiber roller with a paint tray for oil here
Construction paper to protect the floor here
Narrow tape for forming the concrete imitation casings, double taping is possible to make the relief higher here
Water sprayer here
Paint brush/ sponge here
Adhesion promoter here

Preparatory work

For the first and second layers, a white decorative clay plaster with a color pigment will be used.

Pour 8.5 L of water into a container of at least 35 L, add the entire 132_B color pigment and mix well with a dedicated electric mixer. While continuing to stir, slowly add the entire content of the package of white decorative clay plaster, mix well and allow the mixture to swell from 1 to 12 hours after covering the container. The mixture may look quite liquid, but it will thicken later. Stir the decorative clay plaster again before plastering.

Follow this link to learn how to prepare the mix correctly and how to plaster the first layer:

While the decorative clay plaster swells, adhesive protective strips should be used to protect adjacent walls, ceilings, floors, electrical switches and other details on the wall. At the same time, adhesive protective tape will help to form a nice inner corner, just note that when gluing the protective tape on an adjacent wall, it cannot be pasted directly into the corner – it is necessary to leave a gap of 1-2 mm between the strip and the inner corner, so that the clay plaster does not crumble after plastering the wall and peeling off the strip.

The clay plaster mixture can be applied with typical putty tools, but a stainless steel trowel with a handle from above should be used for pattern formation and polishing. The trowel should be flexible enough, not too hard. The edges and corners must be rounded so as not to leave cuts on the wall. Quality metal will ensure that the tool does not leave black marks on the wall. You will also need a smaller spatula to take the mixture out of the bucket and apply to the corners.

The first layer:

In the first layer, cover the entire area with decorative clay plaster and create a more prominent texture at intervals. All the created effects will be seen later in the last layer, so don’t overdo it, because the more different effects are created, the more variegated the wall will be. Analyze the surrounding architectural objects or try to intuitively feel how much, where and what strokes to make, and where to just leave a flat wall area.

You can also apply the clay plaster to the wall in a circular motion, if it is more convenient, but later you have to rub the entire surface again in a straight line horizontally and vertically with a trowel, so that there are no signs of rotational movements. After leveling the wall, clean the trowel with a spatula and swipe again over the surface of the plastered wall to accumulate a small excess of clay plaster mixture on the edge of the trowel, which forms a prominent texture. The forming movement must be as if out of inertia – fast and without much pressure on the wall. If this movement fails to create a natural-looking texture, you can stick the trowel to the wall in the full plane and get a slightly different texture pattern when you lift it. Cover the remaining wet clay mixture with a film or lid to prevent it from drying out. We recommend using the mixed mixture within two weeks.

Your wall will dry completely in about 10 – 14 hours. Then, with the edges of a spatula or trowel, lightly shave off the weakly adhering clay plaster and the most prominent areas of the created texture, but do not make them flat. It is best to shave the beginning and end of the stroke, thus creating a mountain effect and strokes that rise from the wall and disappear into it again.

If you want to create formwork effects on your concrete imitation wall, you have to form blocks of the desired dimensions on the dried first layer by gluing a 5 – 10 mm wide protective paint strip. For more expressive lines, glue the tape two or even three times on top of each other. You can use line bouncers or other measuring and marking devices to make the simulated blocks as smooth as possible.

The second layer

For the second layer of concrete imitation wall, the decorative clay plaster may not be as thick as in the first layer, therefore, you can add up to 0.5 l of water to the remaining mixture and mix well again.

In the second layer of concrete imitation wall, you have to thinly cover the entire wall area, only this time not creating a prominent texture, but vice versa, leaving some small cavities through which the first layer would be visible. Cavities occur naturally when clay plaster is applied to the wall in a very fast motion. Don’t try to create cavities artificially as they won’t look nice and natural, so if you really can’t do this, don’t do them at all, just cover the wall with a thin layer of decorative clay plaster. Even if you get beautiful, natural-looking cavities – don’t overdo them, because the more of them there are, the more variegated the wall will look. Do not try to reproduce any effects symmetrically in any layer. Note that the painting strips must be covered with decorative clay plaster and better plastered in areas from one edge of the block to the other, this will make it easier to control the processes and, if necessary, stop.

The second layer of decorative clay plaster will dry in about 10 – 14 hours.

The third layer

You can now prepare the clay – marble putty FINISH NO. 9 for the third layer. Pour 6 L of water into a container of at least 20 L, add all the 134_B color pigment and mix well with a dedicated electric mixer. While continuing to stir, slowly add the entire content of the package of the clay – marble putty Finish No. 9, also add about 20 g of ground hardwood charcoal, which will give a very nice, black grain noise effect. Stir the mixture again and cover the container to swell from 1 to 12 hours. The mixture for the third layer should not be too thick as it will apply very thickly and may hide the second layer too much or even crack.

After the second layer of the wall has dried, peel off the protective paint strips from the wall, which formed an imitation of the formwork. Stir the mixture again and check that it is not too thick, because it should apply on the wall thinly and easily. Already after the first stroke, you can see how the effects created in the first two layers stand out, and how the grains of embedded carbon are revealed. When working with clay – marble putty FINISH No. 9, te most important thing is to remove the excess mixture with a trowel so that in places it is almost transparent. It is also possible to create natural-looking cavities in this layer, but we recommend doing just a few. In the third layer, interesting cavities can be obtained by putting a clean trowel all over the plane against the still wet wall and simply pulling it back. Often, these effects are quite unintentional, when you still want to repair already plastered wall areas. Therefore, keep in mind that it is better not to make major repairs on a slightly dry surface or to be very careful, as it is easiest to damage at this stage. As in the second layer, we recommend plastering from one edge of the block to the other.

Hardening

When the wall no longer sticks and no longer smears when touched by hand, but it is still wet – we can gently harden it with a trowel. It is difficult to say the exact time, as it all depends on many drying factors, but the approximate interval for the start of hardening is from 30 minutes to 1 hour. Hardening takes place with the same stainless steel trowel. The tool must be clean and dry, and the hardening itself takes place by slightly lifting one edge of the trowel from the wall, gently pressing the tool. The same area should be touched with the trowel no more than 1 – 3 times, in horizontal and vertical movements. If you harden the wall very intensively, it may crack during the drying process. However, for concrete imitation, this may not be a defect but an effect.

Effects of water runoff

Allow the third layer to dry a little more, and at the same time prepare a mixture of water and black pigment to create the effect of water runoff if you plan to do so. Add about 10 g of black pigment to 1 liter of water and mix well. Sprayers, brushes and rollers can be used to create a water runoff effect. The most beautiful effects of water runoff are obtained with the sprayer – slightly spray the mixture with the mist until the excess begins to flow naturally. If the flow is too bright, you can carefully spray the wall with clean water that will flush out the already existing drains. Do not make repetitions of the runoff effect on the entire wall and at one height level. Ideally, you should select just a few places for this. There is also one golden rule of “pouring” – be sure to destroy the beginning and end, and you can do this by spraying clean water or a damp sponge with tapping movements. You can also spray the entire wall area at intervals with pigmented water, but without making any runoff. Later, hardening the wall again can darken nicely in those areas, making it look more natural. But do not harden in any way if the surface of the wall is still shiny, and the wall itself is sticky and still smears your hands when touched, as you will displace the effects of touches. If the wall has dried in places to create the effects, it should be slightly moistened with clean water, wait until the water is completely absorbed, and the wall itself will not be smeared when touched by hand and then harden again. The more you harden, the more the wall will shine, so if you want a more matte wall, you can not harden a second time. If during the drying process you see that there are ugly darkened areas after pouring the pigmented water, tap them with a damp sponge with a strong motion, just do not rub in any way.

Impregnation

Allow the wall to dry well, this can take 12 to 24 hours. In order for the wall to acquire not only resistance to abrasion and liquids, but also richer, brighter colors, it can be covered with natural tung oil. When oiling, it is important to roll out the entire wall well, especially the roller connection lines. After soaking the roller, it is recommended to oil about 1 sq. M, then without soaking the roller, return again and roll well the already oiled area with a semi-dry roller, etc. At corners where it is difficult to oil with a roller, carefully apply the oil with a brush. Coating the wall with oil can provide additional effects by spraying plain water. Those areas that will receive water will lighten, because the water will displace the oil, so it is possible to create natural-looking whitish runoff effects or lighten the wall in places, to give more spots. After a few hours, when the oil absorbs and the wall becomes matte, it is recommended to clean the surface with a clean microfiber cloth to remove excess oil and dust from the clay mixture. Don’t be fooled by the first impression of a newly painted wall, the real effects will only be revealed within 24 hours and especially if water has been used.

Tung oil is better to cover those walls that will receive natural daylight, and only once, because in the dark, the oiled wall, especially in the presence of excess, can begin to turn yellow. Also, keep in mind that tung oil is a natural product that polymerizes naturally by reacting with oxygen, so even for a few months you can smell the oil, which is safe for your health. After trying this on your own, flaxseed and other oils can be used. If you like the color intensity and the existing result after the third layer has dried, you can glaze the wall or not cover anything and leave it naturally. For more information on wall impregnation methods, read our work manual on the website www.clay.lt

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmmYozRl7ns

The wall “LINEN” is completed according to the colors shown in the photo. To make a wall of other colors, add the items to the basket separately.

Buy the kit here

Materials and tools required for ~ 15 – 17 sq. m. wall:

Mr. Clay decorative clay plaster (25 kg) – 1 pc. – EUR 47
132_B color – 8 EUR
Clay paint “Išbandyk 400 g.” 3 pcs. 99 B color – 24 EUR
Clay paint “Išbandyk 400 g.” 2 pcs. 116 B color – 12 EUR
Clay paint “Išbandyk 400 g.” 3 pcs. white color – 13.50 EUR
Tung oil 0.9 L – 14 EUR
Trowel for plastering and polishing Marmorino tools Stil mirror light 21102 – 37 EUR
Decorating brush to give the texture of the first layer – 19 EUR
A prepared sketch board on which you will make your example, test the colors, etc. – 6 EUR

The whole basket of materials for 17 sq. m. wall + TROWEL, the price is only 180.50 EUR

Additionally, you will need these auxiliary tools and instruments

Measuring cup for holding the mixture here
protective paint tape buy here
protective paint film to protect the side walls;
microfiber cloth for oiling (instead you can put two cotton socks or gloves on the palm of your hand) buy here
construction paper to protect the floor buy here
water sprayer, buy here
paint brush buy here
adhesion promoter, buy here.

The first layer:

On the primed and dried wall, in a thicker layer of about 3 mm, a gray layer of decorative clay plaster is plastered and sharply carved in the desired directions using a decorating brush. The first layer will not look nice, everything may rumple, fall, crumble when dry, but it is necessary to get the effects in the last layer. When the first coat is completely dry, scrape the wall very lightly with a spatula to make the loose plaster fall off and make the texture smoother. For the first layer of 15 sq. m. wall you will use a little more than 1/2 of the decorative clay plaster for the wall layer.

Follow this link to learn how to prepare the mix correctly and how to plaster the first layer:

The second layer:

About 0.5 L of water can be added to the remaining clay plaster mixture, mixed and, without creating any patterns, THIN plaster the entire wall. Do not be afraid – the texture of your first layer will smooth out, and when the plaster dries, it may even look that it is not left. But it will still show all its beauty in the final stages.

The third layer:

On the dried second layer we continue to work with clay paint. Mix the paint with less water than indicated on the package – pour 400 g of clay paint mixture into 350 g of water to make them thicker. At this stage you will need a painting brush or sponge. With three different clay paint colors, create wall colors the way you want. When the result satisfies you, wait until the wall dries so much that when you touch it with your hand, it will no longer be sticky and greasy, but will still be wet. Carefully start hardening the wall with a clean and dry stainless steel trowel, it is not necessary to harden consistently – if you see that the thicker painted areas are still very soft and sticky, come back to them later. And if there are dry, lightened areas, they need to be re-moistened to regenerate and harden with a trowel when the water absorbs and no longer shines on the wall surface. During hardening, the texture you create will acquire a beautiful and smooth pattern.

Oiling

The last stage is oiling – It is done after about 24 hours, when the wall is really dry. We apply tung oil on such a wall very carefully, wiping a small area of some fabric, folding the wetter side folded inwards (or rubbing it somewhere so that there is really no excess), and lightly “massage” the wall, starting from the bottom or edges, to feel how things work and how the pattern of the first layer is revealed, you can already press harder later when you understand the process. Oiling will intensify the color and pattern of the wall, resulting in an optical wall depth. Since only the tops of the wall texture are oiled, it may be necessary to repeat the oiling a couple of times, as the effect may disappear after it is absorbed, you can do it after a few hours or again the next day if necessary.

IMPORTANT – oiling is the most common mistake, as soaking the fabric in oil and placing it on the wall usually results in a very bright spot, so before oiling the wall, wipe off the excess on a separate plate or a sketch already made, and only then rub the wall with the residue. We do not recommend this technique for oiling with a roller, as you will get a completely different result.

It is important to know:

it is recommended to test the materials in a separate sketch before starting work. This will determine the future color and pattern of the walls.
drying clay plaster and putty will lighten, so it is not possible to judge the final color by wet mixture.
after oiling, the color will intensify slightly again and will remain as it is.

* All information provided is for guidance only and Mr. Clay cannot take responsibility for results that do not meet expectations, but we are always happy to consult and help until you succeed in achieving the desired result.

Watch the educational video on our website www.clay.lt or:

Youtube – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHQVgY4vZJ1wLnWmJH9DZGw

Instagram – https://www.instagram.com/mr_clay_natural_clay_plasters/

Buy the kit here

Materials and tools needed for a wall of ~ 15 sq. m.:

Mr. Clay white decorative clay plaster (25 kg) – 1 piece 47 EUR
Plastering and polishing trowel Marmorino tools Stilmirror light 21102 – 37 EUR
Grey pigment for decorative clay plaster 96_B No. x 1 pcs. 30 EUR (two layers of plaster in the same colour)
Pattern tool 25185 – 19 EUR
If you need to increase the abrasion and fluid resistance of your clay plaster, we recommend our proven product – Caparol DecoLasur Matt.– 29 EUR
A sketch panel ready for you to make your own sample, test colours, etc. – 6 EUR

The price for a complete material basket for a 15 sq. m. wall starts from 139 EUR!

IMPORTANT– the colours are for reference only, so if you are interested in a different wall colour, we recommend you to order our colour palette to your home and choose ->here

The tools and aids you will need:

Measuring cup for holding the mixture here
Protective painting tape here
Paint protection film to protect adjacent walls;
Paint roller and lacquer bath here
Water sprayer, available here
Paper to protect the floor and tape to stick it down here
A 35liter bucket for mixing the decorative clay plaster – we recommend using a tall narrow container.
Electric mixer for mixing plaster.

Follow this link to learn how to prepare the mix correctly and how to plaster the first layer:

Preparing the mixture

pour 8.5 liters of water into a 35 liter bucket, then pour in the entire pigment jar, mix well with an electric mixer and carefully pour in the clay-plaster mixture in to the mix while stirring continuously. For better mixing, we recommend mixing in a tall and narrow container. Cover the mixture to prevent it from drying out and leave it to stand for at least a couple of hours. Ideally, prepare it during the evening so it is ready for the next day’s work.

First layer of decorative clay plaster:

Apply the first layer with simple curved movements, without creating any pattern, as in the tutorial video.

Second layer of decorative clay plaster:

In this layer, the clay plaster can be plastered slightly thicker up to ~ 3 mm. Plastering is done with curved motions. After plastering ~2 m2, the wall should be scraped with a decorating brush while wet, then plastered over a similar area, scraped again with a decorating brush, etc. Scraping it with a brush will result in a spiky wall, which won’t look pretty, but at this stage it shouldn’t.

IMPORTANT – for best results, use a thicker mix for the second coat, so if you are mixing a new pack of decorative clay plaster, mix it with 8L of water. If the mixture in the second layer is too runny, the resulting raised pattern may start to slip downwards.

Wall treatment – curing:

Option 1 – while the wall is wet

After applying the second plaster coat, wait until the wall has become so dry that it is no longer sticky and tacky when you touch it, but is still wet. Carefully start curing the wall with a clean and dry stainless steel trowel. It is not necessary to cure consistently – if you see that the thicker areas are still very soft and sticky, go back to them later. Wet any dry, greyish areas again to revitalise them, then cure with a trowel once the water has been absorbed and is no longer glistens on the wall surface. The hardening process will give your texture a nice smooth pattern.

Option 2 – when the wall is dry

If the wall dries out before curing, it will have to be wet again. This is best done with a water sprayer, but try to avoid run-off so the water does not wash away the pigment and leave marks as it runs down. If water starts pooling in places when spraying, use a dry paint roller to roll the area to disperse the water and prevent it from running. After waiting at least 10 minutes until the wall is no longer shiny from the water and no longer sticks to your fingers when touched, try to gently harden the wall with a stainless steel trowel, if the texture is nicely compacted, harden the whole wall. If you feel the wall is too wet, wait a little longer, and if the wall is scratchy and the pattern is not squeezing in at all, moisten it some more.

After curing, the wall must be smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Impregnation – the wall can be coated with a glaze or water-based varnish if required. We do not recommend coating this technique with tung oil or other oils.

Important to know:

It is recommended to test the materials and techniques on a separate sketch before starting work. This will determine the future colour and pattern of the walls;
clay plaster will lighten as it dries, so the final colour cannot be judged from the wet mix.

*All information provided is merely a guide. Mr. Clay cannot take responsibility for results that fall short of expectations. We will always be happy to advise and help you until you achieve your desired result.

Watch a short training video on our YOUTUBE account

Ombre Wall

is formed using the colours shown in the photo. If you prefer to make a wall of other colours, add the items to the basket separately, and specify in the comment the desired ratios for the mixing of intensities of colours or email us at info@clay.lt and we will help you choose everything you need.

Full basket of materials 15 sq. m. OMBRE for the wall:

Trowel for plastering and polishing Marmorino tools Stilmirror light 21102 – EUR 37
A prepared sketch plate on which you will be able to make your sample, test the colours, etc. – EUR 6
Mr. Clay decorative clay plaster (25 kg) – 1 pc. EUR 47
Colour pigment for decorative clay plaster 133_B x 1 pc. 7 EUR (two layers of wall plaster of the same colour)
Mr. Clay clay paint “Try 400 g.” immediately dry-mixed with the required pigment:

-158_B (220%) x 2 pcs. EUR 12 (this will be your brightest bottom colour)

-158_B (160%) x 2 pcs. EUR 12

-158_B (100%) x 2 pcs. EUR 12

-158_B (60%) x 2 pcs. EUR 12

-158_B (20%) x 2 pcs. EUR 12

The total cost of a basket of materials for a 15 sq. m wall is only EUR 157!

IMPORTANT – the colours are for guidance only, so you should purchase 158_B pigment if you wish to darken the colours on your own. And if you are interested in a wall of a completely different colour, we recommend ordering our colour palette at home and choosing -> here

Tools and auxiliary instruments you will need:

Protective paint tape, buy here;
Protective paint film for protecting other walls;
Decoration sponge (must be soft and easily compressed in the hand, cut in half in order to make it fit in your hand), which you can find here;
Paint roller or brush SPALTER BRUSH
Water sprayer, which you can find here;
Paper for floor protection and tape for gluing it;
Bucket of water for rinsing the sponge;
35 l bucket for mixing decorative clay plaster and 5 smaller buckets for clay paint.
Electric mixer for plaster and smaller mixer for clay paints.

The first two layers of decorative clay plaster:

The first layer of decorative clay plaster mixed with colour 133_b is applied to the prepared wall -> allow it to dry –> plaster the second layer –> allow it to dry once again

You can see how to apply the mixture correctly and lay the first two layers here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=359CxVmFOA0&t

Third layer:

All clay paint should be mixed in advance in separate buckets.

For example, in order to mix two bags of one colour clay paint of 400 g, follow these instructions – add about 700 g of water to a bucket of at least 2 l, then mix the resulting dry mixtures, which are already with pigments, while stirring gently, mix well, allow it to stand for at least 30 minutes and mix again before use.

*Apply a little clay paint from all buckets (possible on plain paper as well), dry and evaluate for excessive contrasts between adjacent colours. If all goes well, we recommend still making a sketch on the plate and only then decorating the wall.

Work process:

In order to obtain a beautiful colour transition from the darkest to the lightest, it is recommended to apply at least 5 rows of clay paint. Work can be done from top to bottom and vice versa. But it is safer if the work is performed from top to bottom.

At the beginning, apply the lightest colour of 158_B (20%) clay paint over the entire width of the wall with a roller or paint brush. With a damp sponge, in a medium-sized circular motion, wipe everything gently, especially the lower joint, which will be painted in a different colour. Do not rub too heavily as the sponge “ripples”may appear. They can be removed by tapping the wall with a sponge.
Then apply another row of the desired height, starting to apply 158_B (60%) paint a little above the joint line and down to the desired limit. First, cover the upper connection line with a sponge, by lightly touching the top 158_B (20%) colour row to blend the colours more nicely, then the bottom line and finally the entire area covered in the darker 158_B (60%) colour. Continue doing the same across all of the rows to the bottom.

P.S. A damp sponge should be used immediately, as it will be difficult to blend the colours nicely when the clay paint dries. If it is more convenient for you, you can immediately apply and rub the clay paint with a sponge.

Keep in mind that rubbing with a sponge will also mix intermediate colours in the joints.

Clay paint application methods

If you work in pairs, one person should apply the clay paint with a brush or roller and the other should wipe everything evenly on the wall with a damp, well-wrung sponge.

It is also possible to apply clay paint with sponges for both workers at once, covering everything at once.

If you work alone, use the sponge to apply clay paint to the wall and rub it immediately with the same sponge.

Important to know:

the wall will lighten significantly as it dries, so it will not be possible to make out the colour from the wet mixture.
when decorating in this way, the dried wall can be loose, so the dried wall can be wiped off with a dry microfiber cloth or hardened with a stainless steel trowel after wetting it again. When hardening the wall, one edge of the trowel must be raised slightly, the same as it is done while plastering. For more information on proper trowel storage, see our video tutorials.

* All information provided is for guidance only and Mr. Clay cannot accept liability for results that do not live up to expectations, but we will always be happy to consult and help you until the desired result is achieved.

https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17919484804443634/

Sienai “GRANITO IMITACIJA” naudojamos “BETONO IMITACIJOS” medžiagos ir spalvos. Norėdami daryti ryškesnių spalvų sieną, įsigykite papildomai juodo pigmento. Aukščiau esanti nuotrauka atspindi pačią techniką, bet ne spalvas.

Pilną rinkinį įsigykite čia

Medžiagos ir priemonės, reikalingos ~ 15 – 17 kv. m. sienai:

Mr. Clay apdailinis molio tinkas (25 kg.) – 1 vnt. – 40 EUR
Mr. Clay molio-marmuro glaistas FINISH Nr. 9 (10 kg. – 1 vnt.) – 38 EUR
132_B spalvos mineralinis pigmentas pirmiems dviems apdailinio molio tinko sluoksniams – 1 vnt. – 6 EUR
134_B spalvos mineralinis pigmentas trečiam FINISH Nr. 9 sluoksniui – 1 vnt. – 5 EUR
Tungų aliejus 2,7 L. – 35 EUR
Kietmedžio anglis ~ 40 g. – 5 EUR (rekomenduojame naudoti tik pusę kiekio)
Tinkavimui ir poliravimui skirta glaistyklė Marmorino tools Stilmirror light 21102 – 30 EUR
Paruošta eskizinė plokštė, ant kurios pasidarysite savo pavyzdį, ištestuosite spalvas ir pan. – 5 EUR

Viso rinkinio kaina 164 EUR

Papildomai Jums reikės šių pagalbinių įrankių ir priemonių

apsauginė dažymo juosta pirkti čia
apsauginė dažymo plėvelė šoninėms sienoms apsaugoti
mikrofibro pluošto volelis su vonele aliejui
statybinis popierius gindims apsaugoti
siaura dažymo juostelė betono klojinių imitacijos kūrimui pirkti čia
vandens purkštuvas pirkti čia
dažymo šepetėlis/teptukas/kempinėlė pirkti čia
sukibimą gerinantis gruntas pirkti čia

Informacija apie mišinio paruošimą žiūrėkite čia:

Pirmasis sluoksnis – apdailinis molio tinkas, 132_B spalva

Tinkuojama nespaudžiant, plastiškais judesiais, nesistengiant iki galo išlyginti nuo glaistyklės susidariusių šiek tiek iškilusių bangelių, bet visiškai padengiant visą sienos paviršių. Visada tinkuojama glaistyklę laikant 45 laipsnių kampu sienos atžvilgiu. Leisti pilnai išdžiūti.

Antrasis sluoksnis – apdailinis molio tinkas, 132_B spalva

Išdžiūvus pirmam apdailinio molio tinko sluoksniui, tinkuojamas antrasis sluoksnis tonuotas pasirinkta spalva Iš Mr. Clay spalvų paletės. Šiuo atveju galima dėti ne visą 6 nr. spalvos indelį arba du vienetus 7 nr. spalvos indelius, kad vėlesni spalvų perėjimai neturėtų per didelių kontrastų. Tinkuojama plastiškais sukamaisiais judesiais, stipriau spaudžiant, bet nesistengiant užtepti viso ploto, taip kad pro subtilias ertmes matytųsi pirmasis sluoksnis ( vėliau viskas užsidengs trečiuoju sluoksniu, bet susiformuos sienos gylis, kuris duos labai gražius efektus).

Antrasis sluoksnis paliekamas džiūti apie 20 – 40 min. Paviršius tinkamas toliau dirbti, kai molio tinkas dar drėgnas, tačiau palietus ranka jau nelimpantis. Matomos džiūstančios apatinio balto sluoksnio bangelės, šviesėjančios dėmelės visame sienos plote.

Nuotraukoje matomos pirmojo sluoksnio ertmės ir džiuvimo proceso pradžia, kai galima pradėti tinkuoti trečiąjį sluoksnį.

Trečiame sluoksnyje tinkuojamas 7 nr. spalva tonuotas molio – marmuro glaistas FINISH Nr. 9. Tinkuojama tik nerūdijančio plieno glaistykle skirta tinkavimui ir poliravimui – žiūrėti čia.

Lengvais plastiškais judesiais plonu sluoksniu užtepamas visas plotas. (per rankos mostą – iki 1 kv.m.)

2. Užtepus, ta pačia glaistykle iškart nuiminėjamas perteklius, kurio metu gaunami du efektai:

Perteklius nuiminėjamas smarkiau spaudžiant, kad lengvai atsidengtų apatinis pilkas sluoksnis
Nuimtą perteklių tepant toliau gaunamas pereinančių spalvų efektas.

Vienas asmuo vienu metu gali tinkuoti apie 10 kv. m. sieną. Darbas vyksta kvadratiniais metrais dirbant nuo viršaus į apačią. 1 kv. m. padengti trunka apie 5 – 10 min.

Poliravimas

Paskutinis sluoksnis turi džiūti nuo 1h iki 2h. Ir tada atliekamas pirmasis poliravimo etapas: ta pačia švariai nuvalyta glaistykle , pradedant nuo anksčiausiai užtepto ploto, sukamaisiais judesiais šiek tiek paspaudžiant, paliečiamas visas sienos perimetras. Siena liečiama glaistyklės briauna, glaistyklę laikant paverstą 45 laipsnių kampu sienos atžvilgiu. Leidžiame sienai dar 1-2h padžiūti ir poliruojame antrą kartą. Šiame poliravimo etape glaistyklę galima paspausti stipriau. Atsiranda lengvas blizgesys, o paviršius tampa glotnus ir lygus.

Aliejavimas Tungų aliejumi

Aliejavimas neskiestu tungų aliejumi ne tik impregnuoja ir sukietina sienos paviršių, bet ir suteikia sienai gylio bei grožio, išryškina spalvas. Taip impregnuotas paviršius natūraliai polimerizuojasi ir kietėja 30 – 60 dienų, todėl bent pirmas savaites sienos paviršių reikėtų saugoti nuo pažeidimų ar skysčių.

Aliejavimas atliekamas po maždaug 24h, kai siena jau tikrai išdžiūvusi. Tungų aliejus užnešamas mikrofibro pluošto voleliu. Aliejuojant spalva suintensyvės ir atsiras optinis sienos gylis. Pirmo aliejavimo metu aliejus įsigers pilnai, bet būtina išstumdyti vietomis susidariusį perteklių. Antrą kartą aliejuoti galima po 12 h, taip pat išstumdant perteklių. Jeigu aliejus nebesigeria, po 2h aliejaus perteklius pašalinamas švaria šluoste ir trečią kartą aliejuoti nebūtina, nebent liko šviesesnių dėmelių dėl prieš tai netolygiai įsigėrusio aliejaus.

Svarbu žinoti:

prieš pradedant darbus rekomenduojama išsibandyti medžiagas atskirame eskize. Tokiu būdu nustatysite būsimą sienų spalvą ir jos pokyti visuose etapuose.
džiūdamas molio tinkas ir glaistas šviesės, todėl negalima spręsti apie galutinę spalvą pagal šlapią mišinį.
po aliejavimo spalva vėl labai intensyvės ir tokia liks.
aliejavimo metu reikia stengtis, kad ant paviršiaus nenusėstų dulkės ir kiti nešvarumai, nes gali prilipti prie paviršiaus.
Darbo eigoje visuose etapuose mentelė privalo būti švariai valoma drėgna šluoste, kad molio glaistas nepridžiūtų prie briaunių ir neįtakotų darbo kokybės;
Aliejus turi specifinį kvapą, kuris vėliau išgaruoja.

Daugiau informacijos apie Tungų aliejų skaitykite čia

*Visa pateikta informacija yra tik rekomendacinio pobūdžio ir Mr. Clay negali prisiimti atsakomybės už lūkesčių nepateisinančius rezultatus, bet visada mielai konsultuosime ir padėsime, kol pavyks pasiekti norimo rezultato.

APPLICATION OF TUNG OIL ON MR. CLAY PLASTER WALLS

IMPORTANT INFORMATION – during drying the tung oil can give off a specific odor for up to several months. Read the detailed information and tips below.

Tung oil is a natural quality oil used for wood impregnation, and it can also be used to impregnate our artistically decorated clay plaster walls. The oil is non-toxic and does not contain chemical additives so it is suitable for use in premises where children spend a lot of time.

As with any natural product, it is important to understand the nuances of using Tung oil before deciding what to choose for impregnation of walls: oil, wood stains, various varnishes, or maybe leave the walls natural?

WHEN DO WE USE TUNG OIL?

Only on the walls of artistic decoration, for example, imitation of concrete or granite, when clay – marble putty FINISH No.9 is used, or in some cases when clay paint is used, for example, when the “Linen” technique is performed on the wall and where the oil is simply rubbed into the surface.

IMPORTANT! We DO NOT RECOMMEND applying tung oil on walls plastered with smooth decorative clay plaster or painted with clay paint, as it will not look good – the walls may look “wet” and the oil may be absorbed unevenly. In this case, other methods of impregnation should be used, such as applying wood stains or water-based varnish. It is even better to leave such surfaces completely natural.

WHY DO WE USE TUNG OIL?

It hardens the surface;
it protects against water (but it lets off steam, so it should not be used in shower areas);
it makes artistically decorated walls look beautiful – it intensifies colours, highlights patterns;
the product is natural and it is the only oil in the world that hardens naturally by reacting with oxygen, so there are no additional chemical additives in the composition.

HOW MUCH TIME NEEDS TO PASS FOR THE WALL TO BECOME RESISTANT AND WHEN CAN IT BE CLEANED?

While tung oil takes a few months to cure, the wall will become resistant quite quickly. However, the wall should be protected for at least two weeks, especially from water and wet cleaning, as wet areas may become discoloured. P.S. We often use this effect deliberately to create even more impressive walls.

HOW TO CORRECTLY APPLY TUNG OIL ON THE WALLS?

The oiled wall should be completely dry, otherwise the wet areas will become lighter, as water displaces the oil;
Use a large, at least 20 cm well-absorbing medium-length hair roller for oiling large walls, and a smaller-sized roller or brush with the same characteristics for oiling hard-to-reach places, such as corners, near ceilings, etc. (it is not recommended to use a foam roller);
Make sure the oil is kept in a warm environment before oiling – it should be a transparent amber colour. At lower temperatures, tung oil can thicken and become lighter, which is not suitable for its application.
When oiling, it is important to cover the entire wall, especially the connection lines of the roller. After soaking the roller, it is recommended to cover about 1 sq. m with oil, then without soaking the roller, return to the same spot and roll out the already oiled area with a semi-dry roller, etc. Be sure to soak the roller in oil every 1 m2.

HOW LONG DOES THE TUNG OIL SMELL?

During oiling, you will not smell any chemical odours which may make you dizzy – the smell may remind you of baking pancakes, but it will not be dangerous to your health.

After oiling the wall, depending on the surface on which it is made (on drywall, old paint, various plaster or concrete slabs, etc.) the smell can remain for 2 to 12 months at varying intensity. Usually the smell is not emitted by the oil itself, but by the substances below, as the oil naturally cures for about 2 months. In order to speed up all processes, it is recommended to ventilate the premises well and do not place objects against the wall for at least a few months. For areas that will be completely hidden, for example, behind hanging cabinets, it is better not to oil them at all. If your home is equipped with a recuperative system, smells are usually not perceptible.

P.S. The smell is quite faint – some people will not smell anything, others might even like smell of tung oil, while others would prefer not to smell it at all. Nevertheless, the product is completely natural and harmless. If you find that the smell of the oil remains and irritates you, contact us and we will find new strategies to remove the smell faster.

If you are sensitive to smells, you should consider another impregnation agent. Contact us and we will look for solutions together!

HOW CAN THE WALL CHANGE OVER TIME?

If there is excess oil during its application, the wall may start to turn yellow after a few months.
If there is no sunlight or you cover the wall with objects, these areas may also turn yellow.

In order to make sure that the wall does not turn yellow, it is recommended:

to oil only once, and to thoroughly wipe the entire wall with a dry microfibre cloth a few hours after oiling;
to oil only those walls that will be in open space and will be exposed to natural sunlight.
to oil only pigmented walls – do not oil white walls, because such walls will turn yellow immediately.

If some parts of the wall still turned yellow, you can clean it with fabric bleach. We have tried this cleaning method ourselves and have noticed that the yellowness disappears, without damaging the colours or the wall itself. However, care should be taken and you should test such methods in smaller or less visible first. The wall should then be cleaned thoroughly with a cloth dampened with water.

ALTERNATIVES TO TUNG OIL

Instead of tung oil, it is possible to use double-boiled flaxseed oil with siccative or other oils after testing them on a separate sketch.

These are just general recommendations from Mr. Clay, based on experience gained with tung oil.

Works manager

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